O·ster·i·a Marco
Just this past Friday, Blake and I finally stopped by Frank Bonanno’s Osteria Marco for dinner. We’ve been to Bones, Bonanno’s Asian-inspired establishment at 7th and Grant, on numerous occasions. This, however, was our first visit to his Larimer Square outpost. Those of you who have been singing its praises… we were not let down!
Upon arrival for our 8:30 p.m. reservation, we were kindly greeted by the front line staff and informed that there was a bit of a reservations back up… and without hesitation Blake and I immediately saddled up to the bar. We both ordered a lovely glass of the Soave Classico. [Side note: Soave has become my tried and true white wine of choice these days. Ever since returning from a trip last spring to Verona and Venice, I’ve been making a rather popular-with-the-locals white wine-based cocktail called an Aperol Spritz—a dry Italian white wine served with a splash of Aperol and topped off with sparkling mineral water. If you haven't tried it, I highly suggest picking up a bottle of Aperol and a bottle of Soave at Argonaut. They're particularly pleasant in the summertime.] Ok, back to the point of the post. Perhaps the most notable event during our time at the bar happened immediately before we had been taken to our table. Out of the blue, one of the bar staffed yelled out “Alastair!” with bill in hand. I was a little confused, but as I was signing the slip a hostess came over and informed us that our table was ready. Now that’s communication… It was a nice touch.
After being seated, Blake and I were startled and amused to hear that it was Denver Restaurant Week, “a two-week celebration of the culinary scene in Denver.” Apparently, someone did not inform them that every week is restaurant week for the DOD boys! In any case, participating restaurants offer special multi-course dinners for the fixed price of $52.80 for two, or $26.40 for one (not including tax or gratuity). We opted to forgo the special menu and chose from the other regularly offered dishes. We immediately started off with the Chef’s assortment of meat and cheeses: prosciutto, salame, sopressata picante, mozzarella, ricotta, robiola, and a red onion relish. It was amazing. I honestly could have consumed the entire plate on my own… but Blake has a big appetite, and well, things would get scrappy. The rest of the meal followed the same pattern. Caesar salad with shaved pecorino and one white anchovy split between the two of us. Really, one anchovy!? Blake has more to share regarding anchovies… In any case, it was a very good salad and by the time our Carne pizza arrived we had moved on. Sausage! Meatball! Pepperoni! And an amazing house ricotta made for an amazing pie, also split between the two of us. Even Blake would have had trouble finishing this pie on his own. An inquiry to our waitress confirmed our thoughts that most people could not complete one entirely on their own. However, considering how good this pizza was, Blake would have put up a good fight! Just saying… we’ll be visiting Osteria Marco again. In the meantime, I will be having dreams of salumi and cheese.
Potager
J’aimerais un jardin potager! On Friday, Blake and I visited what has to be our favorite eating establishment located conveniently in the DOD neighborhood on Ogden Street at East 11th Avenue, Potager. Let’s just start this post with “it’s a good time to be here,” some initial words our waiter, John shared with us.
Potager reminds me of the dining experiences I frequently had in my former life. It changes its menu every month using what is in season and fresh from local farms, such as Pachamama Farm, John Long’s Pork, and Grass Root’s Farm, to name a few. The wine list also changes with the dinner menu. The list highlights local wine distributors and importers, and the majority of the wines are sustainably grown or organic.
After arriving, Blake and I were immediately seated by our favorite hostess (who we are convinced plays a larger role at Potager, beyond the greeting and seating of guests). We sat next to one of the large picture windows that minimize the use of electricity (and may have been responsible for the sudden increases and decreases in temperature we experienced with frequency near the end of our meal). I ordered a glass of the Sauvignon Blanc / Sémillon Bordeaux from France while Blake chose the drier Rioja Blanco from Spain. Both were very nice wines. When it came to ordering, the task was not easy. Like John said, it was a good time to be at Potager. The current menu features many great choices… in addition there were four spectacular specials, each described in depth by our waiter, who also apologized for the myriad of spelling mistakes written on the specials board. John was very attentive but at no point did I feel rushed.
Not ready to choose our main course, Blake and I proceeded to order our starters: a bruleed (yes, as in crème brûlée) duck liver mousse with orange marmalade and the shrimp chowder special with herbed croutons. The dishes came out almost immediately and considering my hunger, it was perfect timing. Blake thought the orange marmalade was very tasty… and he really doesn’t like marmalade. The brûlée provided a great crunch to the mousse. The shrimp chowder, with potatoes and crisp bacon, was with the addition of a touch of salt and pepper, a perfect start.
When we ordered our waiter did not simply acknowledge it in a way that demonstrated he had heard us and understood, instead he had to approve of everything we had said. It started to seem insincere… and honestly, was there anything that he would have disapproved of? In any case, Blake and I were thoroughly entertained by the specials board… Now, if there was one guest that evening to mention this to in advance, John picked the right one! With his editing eye, Blake pointed out one after another: shitaki… giniger… srimp… and perhaps my favorite, wantan!
Speaking of wontons, I ordered the Asian-style braised Grass Roots Farm grass fed beef short ribs with a thankfully toned down version of homemade kimchi [the national dish of Korea] and sticky rice. The sauce that covered the ribs was amazing with just the right amount of sweetness. I paired this with the suggested red wine, a Cabernet-Tempranillo blend. Blake had the grilled long line caught swordfish with lemon. It came with perfectly cooked rosemary potatoes and Jay Hill Farm Swiss chard sauteed with currants, pine nuts, and capers. Blake was very happy. So much so that he indulged my interest in sharing dessert. Ordering dessert is not common amongst the DOD boys, however we settled on a delicious, but hard to tackle Meyer lemon framboise layer cake with lemon cream filling homemade white chocolate lemon ice cream, and blueberry sauce.
It was a superb meal and a wonderful dining experience. Not a surprise at Potager. If you’re looking for a great meal with a warm atmosphere and a wine list to match, the DOD boys highly suggest that you take advantage of the newest menu at Potager before it disappears. I’ve already decided to return soon to taste both the ramen noodle bowl and shellfish stew. Bon appétit!
Barolo Grill
Last night, after a number of postponements, Alastair and I ventured out to the Italian restaurant, Barolo Grill, on East Sixth Avenue. We were accompanied by two southern lady friends of ours and we had ourselves just a great time. Hey y’all!
The four of us had an enormous extravaganza of a meal. We began by splitting two appetizers, both of which were very tasty: a fritto misto of calamari, rock shrimp, and scallops with some spicy peppers; and, from the tasting menu, some sort of mini scallops and mushrooms in a squash purée. Both were de-lish, so much so that one of our southern lady friends (whom I’ll call Bethany Sue) in not so lady-like fashion used her fingers to scoop up the remaining purée. It was that good.
We then moved on to salads. Alastair and I both had the grilled romaine hearts salad with speck and a horseradish/mustard dressing. We opted to add white anchovies and were not disappointed. Well, I wasn’t; Alastair likes his anchovies fuzzier and saltier. (See photo above.) Bethany Sue went for the mixed greens (ho hum, but what can you expect?) and Bonita Lou (our other southern gal pal) had the mixed seafood salad: Dungeness crab, calamari, lobster, and rock shrimp, tossed with celery and tomatoes. It was super cold, just as it should be, and wholly delicious.
Now we come to the main course, and it was here, dear reader, that your intrepid diners were somewhat disappointed. Bethany Sue and I went for the grilled ahi tuna, which came with braised leeks (I loves me some leeks!), fried gnocchi, and tomato broth. The tuna could have had more flavor and it could have been hotter. Our waiter had also warned us that it would just be seared (it was, after all sushi-grade tuna) and we both acquiesced to this enthusiastically. Well, turns out only Bethany Sue’s was seared; mine was cooked pretty much right through. Alastair had the flatiron steak, which was fine, though none too thrilling, and Bonita Lou went for the mushroom risotto: flavor was good but it was a little on the runny side.
We drank wine throughout, chosen from their extensive wine list – it has a table of contents – and finished off the meal with two chocolate ganache truffles for the table and some digestifs. Those Southern gals love their Baileys!
Finally, the service and the décor: One was fantastic, the other not so much. Can you guess which? Our waiter was a Chatty Cathy throughout the evening but it must be said that we were nothing if not encouraging. He was also attentive and knowledgeable and brought us what we wanted when we wanted it. So all good on that front. The décor, on the other hand, could use some work, or perhaps more to the point, less work. Barolo is, in a word, busy. It’s as if the owners have just picked up one of this and one of that wherever they’ve gone. Thrown up on the walls are plates and paintings and Christmas decorations and lights and fake plants and real plants and pictures and posters and you name it. And then there are the niches filled with any number of knick knacks and tchotchkes. Combine this with the fact that the space itself is not large and not quiet and it’s all a little overwhelming. Just a little decorative editing would do Barolo a world of good.
All that said, and the slightly disappointing entrées nothwithstanding, the DaOiD boys and their Southern lady friends had a fantastic evening and would be excited to give it all another whirl sometime in the future. New friends and good food; how can you go wrong?
A Trip to the Highlands

The lovely lighting at the LoHi SteakBar
We recently ventured out to the LoHi SteakBar, and we were not disappointed. They don’t take reservations, but we’re willing to play things fast and loose every once in a while. It’s definitely a little loud and crowded on a weekend night but it is, after all, also a bar. The décor is appealing; we especially liked the lampshades in the front room (though there could be a third in the middle) and the extra wide bar.
We got ourselves on the list as soon as we arrived and the maître d’ (read: skinny kid with the list) kept us informed, at least three times, about our status on the list as we moved up it. It was divine! Like the overly organized homosexuals that we are, we tend to get a little antsy about table lists in restaurants, like someone might swoop in from the side and claim a table before their rightful time, but not here. I (Blake) have never felt so reassured. Bravo LoHi! Also appealing was the bartender, who was friendly and generous with her pours. Femmes take note: hot butch bartender in the Highlands. There were, in fact, many of our sister homosexuals in evidence last night at LoHi. As well as a hipster staff (hipsters in Denver!) that seemed to be outfitted almost entirely in plaid shirts, as if it were the uniform.
But on to matters of importance: food and wine. Wines by the glass were priced well, especially considering the generosity of the pours. Granted, they do come in those silly mini-carafes that one then must pour into one’s glass, but these ones were at least cute, like little beakers in a chemistry set. Once seated by Skinny we ordered steak frites. There are a few options from which to choose and we both went for the strip, which promised the most meat (10 oz). One also has a choice of sauce; we opted for Béarnaise and blue cheese butter. (And thank goodness they have the decency not to spell that “bleu” on their menu, á la française. My pet peeve: if one wants to spell it bleu then one should go for broke and say “fromage bleu,” but if one wants to use the word “cheese,” then use the English spelling on blue as well.) But I digress. The steaks were tender and tasty. The Béarnaise was good, though there wasn’t much blue cheese flavor to the butter in the second option and I loves me some blue cheese. The fries were seriously good: not too crispy and not too soft. A little hint of herb on top. And just right on the salt, which for me means salty! (But if one wanted more, and I might have wanted just a little more, as I am wont to do, the salt on the table seemed to be kosher. Yay!)
Only one complaint: our service could have been better. Everyone else around us seemed to be satisfied with their hipster but ours lagged a little bit. He took his time in taking our order and then pretty much disappeared. We asked for water and he forgot it. And he wasn’t really around to be reminded. On the other hand, the cute flush-cheeked runner who brought our steaks delivered water immediately upon being asked so it seemed like our waiter might just have been the dud of the bunch.
On the whole, were the DaOiD boys satisfied? Indeed they were. And they shall be returning. This trip to the Highlands certainly paid off.














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