Down and Out in Denver

Denver Airport Volunteers

Posted in denver, travel by Blake on February 23, 2010

I’ve just returned from another trip to the Bay Area to see the Gentleman Friend and, while I could talk about the fun restaurants we visited and the endless tasty food I consumed, this is supposed to be a blog about Denver, not San Francisco.

Photo Courtesy of the Denver Post

So, in that spirit: Upon my return to DIA I took the airport tram to the main terminal, ascended the escalator, and once again was faced with the volunteers in their cowboy hats, bolo ties, and faux shearling vests.  Who are these people?  I’m assuming that they are volunteers, particularly so because most of them appear to be senior citizens and they are there no matter the time of day.  But why volunteer at the airport? What about homeless people? A soup kitchen? The illiterate? Your local women’s shelter? Political campaign?  Public park litter patrol?  Unlike these sorts of activities — some of which I have done myself — what kind of rosy altruistic glow does one achieve through volunteering at DIA?  ”Without me, that woman never would have found the Hertz counter.  I made a difference today, I sure did.”  ”Sometimes I get up in the morning and I feel a little useless, but then I remember that it’s because of me that weary travelers figure out where the baggage claim is about 15 seconds faster than they would if they just looked at the signs.  And then I know that I have a real purpose in life!”

I’m not making fun of volunteer work here; for that I have a profound respect.  I’m making fun of this volunteer work, which seems so profoundly useless.  Is it just that most volunteer work that I would consider doing — on behalf of women, the gays, the poor, the environment; causes that need my help, in other words – seems political by definition and this is volunteer work utterly stripped of ideology?  To me that’s what makes it so pointless but maybe that is precisely its appeal?  Any thoughts, dear reader?

United Airlines: Denver Deal of the Decade?

Posted in denver, travel by Blake on February 5, 2010

Alastair and I both love to travel, which is also a euphemism for saying that we like to leave Denver with some frequency.  And like most Coloradans we find ourselves flying on United and Frontier quite a bit because they have hubs at DIA and thus lots of available flights to get out of dodge.  In my 3.5 years here in Colorado I have racked up quite a few miles on both airlines and I am now a Premier member with United’s Mileage Plus Program, which sounds much fancier than it is; the one benefit that I actually appreciate is that I am in Seating Area 1, meaning that I don’t have to worry about finding a place in the overhead bin for my roller bag.  I could get into a long discussion here of the relative merits of United and Frontier, but suffice it to say that I know that both airlines certainly have their critics (Alastair tries to avoid United at all costs).

As a Mileage Plus Member I received an email from United in early January advertising what they were calling their Deal of the Decade: buy one roundtrip ticket originating anywhere in Colorado before February 14th for a flight before March 5th and you’d get another ticket free.  You were also promised two upgrades on other flights.  2 for 1, in other words, with a few restrictions.  Not bad at all, I thought to myself, especially as I have been flying back and forth to San Francisco to see my Gentleman Friend pretty regularly and was planning another trip before the end of February.

A few days ago I tried to take advantage of the Deal of the Decade.  I had previously figured out which flight I wanted to take and priced it at $221 on the United website.  So I registered myself, wrote in “Denver” in the Electronic Promotions and Certificates box (both steps necessary in order to get the deal and tag one’s Mileage Plus number, thus allowing one to redeem the free flight) and searched again for my flight.  Well, this time around it was $556, more than double the first price for the very same flight.  I checked my steps and re-searched, convinced that maybe I had inadvertently claimed there were 2 people flying instead of 1.  But no, I had done everything correctly.  So I called United to figure out what on earth was wrong.  And the operator with whom I spoke clearly knew what was up.  She explained somewhat hesitantly that the deal was a promotion to encourage travelers to purchase a particular class of tickets.  I explained that it thus appeared there was no deal at all, no 2 for 1: I would just be purchasing two tickets up front instead of waiting to buy a second one later.  There seemed to be no incentive whatsoever to do this, save perhaps the two upgrades or, I supposed, the possibility that my second flight would be longer and theoretically more expensive than the relatively short flight to San Francisco.  She confirmed all of this in vague language that never admitted that there was no actual deal, but also made it perfectly clear that she understood what I was saying and could not offer any justification for it.

I was pissed.  So I wrote United a little letter on their website, in which I said much of what you have now read.  I explained what I had done and that “one does not, in fact, receive a ‘free’ flight; one just buys two flights at the beginning and pays double. What kind of promotion is this? It’s disingenuous and insulting to your customers.”  And last night I received a response from a customer service representative, which I shall quote in full here:

Thank you for being a loyal Premier member.

I am sorry for the disappointment related in your e-mail. We do realize that there are instances when things do not go as they should, such as in the situation that you expressed in your email. We continually review all areas of our operation, and customer feedback to identify specific problems and take corrective action.

Thank you for your patience.

They are sorry for my disappointment and apologize that things did not go “as they should.”  Is this an admission that they actually did something wrong or is this just deliberate vagueness that admits of no culpability?  Unclear.  I’m irritated either way.  When I get promotional emails from United or any other airline, I know the drill.  I can fly to Bozeman or Durango or some other thoroughly undesirable and underselling location for $89 or whatever the price is.  But the terms are clear and I need to go to one of these scary places in order to take advantage of them.  I’m not saying that offering up two flights for the price of one necessarily is a wise business decision but I’m not a businessperson and I figured that maybe sales were down and flights were empty and this was a way to get people to at least buy one ticket.  Instead it’s just a ruse. Does United really believe that its customers are so stupid that they won’t figure out this sort of trickery?  Not if the DOD boys have anything to say about it!

Pizza, Pizza, Pizza

Posted in denver, food, travel by Blake on February 1, 2010

Spinach Slice at Gioia in Berkeley

So while I’m back from my trip to the Bay Area to hang out with my Gentleman Friend, Alastair remains AWOL in NYC, expected back who knows when…  In the meantime I give you this meditation on my culinary experiences on the West Coat.

Food is one of the things that I will not disparage about Denver.  I am not a foodie but Alastair and I like to eat out and we do so with some frequency, as the pages of DOD demonstrate.  It is often great eats here in D-Town (for more on this, see also our sister bloggers over at The Denver Omelette).  That said, I am not without my complaints and probably number one on my list is pizza.  I have not been able to find a good pizza in Denver.  I don’t like the chain options, never have, even though the Gentleman Friend swears by Papa John’s.  If I had to go with chain, I would favor Colorado’s own Black Jack.   Chain pizza just tends to be smaller, have a puffier crust than I like, a sweeter sauce, and while I like my toppings (meat, particularly) as much as the next person, chain pizza tends to overload it so much that it’s difficult to find the cheese, and what is pizza if not a vehicle for melted cheese?

So, Denver options: Abo’s and Pasquini’s are OK but I haven’t been thrilled with either.  Pasquini’s seems overpriced and as puffy-crusted as the chain options.  I was going with Abo’s until I stumbled upon Benny Blanco’s and that’s now what I order when I have a yen for pizza.  I don’t think it’s perfect – it’s too thin for me, almost cracker-like at times – but this means it’s definitely not too bready, and that’s a good thing.  Toppings are good and the sauce is tasty, though they could be more generous with cheese (I dated a guy once who ordered BB’s but with extra cheese and always asked to have the extra cheese sprinkled over the toppings; oh the compromises we make…).

But, as I said, I don’t love any of them.  I am generally of the opinion that the best pizza (at least in this country) is in New York: thin but not too thin; sauce not too sweet; generous with cheese to the point of being slightly greasy; tasty toppings; big slices.  But this past weekend I was in the Bay Area and spent the afternoon with a friend of mine from school, Jason, a full-fledged heterosexualist who knows his food.  He likes pizza as much as I do and as he lives in the ‘hood we decided to check out a couple places for lunch, both in the East Bay.  We began with Rotten City Pizza in Emeryville (named for future chief justice Earl Warren’s 1927 declaration that Emeryville was the “rottenest city on the Pacific Coast”).  We both had a slice with some sort of sausage with olives.  Verdict: good but not great.   Definitely thin but not very substantial.  Maybe it was just small?  Unclear.  We were underwhelmed.

Then we went to Gioia in Berkeley.  I’ve been here with Jason before and was impressed the first time.  Nothing has changed.  This is seriously good pizza.  I had a slice of pepperoni and one of their special that day: Calabrian sausage, greens, capers, and some kind of hot pepper.  The second one was strange and sort of unexpected but quite tasty.  And the pepperoni slice was pretty much as good as it gets: a little greasy (meaning plenty cheesy), and thickly sliced pepperoni so you really taste it.  Thin crust but not cracker-like; it sags a little when you pick it up the first time.  Jason also had the pepperoni and then waited about five minutes for a piping hot spinach pizza to emerge from the oven.  Well worth the wait; I tried that, too.  Same great cheese and sauce with baby spinach and hints of garlic.  This is the one pictured above (with Jason’s first bite removed; he was eager).   The owner is friendly and it is clear that this place has fans.  There are only a few stools inside so people are taking the slices (or whole pies) to go and eating as they walk.  After finishing our first slice standing Jason and I snagged the sole bench out front to enjoy our second slice (third of the day).

Gioia claims to be the “Best Pizza West of the Jersey Turnpike” and I might just have to agree. This is pizza that magically manages to be a little bit fancy without compromising all that makes pizza as wonderful as it is.  If Denverites out there would like to recommend something that needs to be tried, however, I am all ears.   I would much rather eat good pizza than sit in judgment.

San Diego!

Posted in gays, travel by Blake on January 11, 2010

The view from my hotel room

It has been a full week since we posted and part of that is because I was off to San Diego for the weekend for work.  My apologies.  I have little to say except that the weather was absolutely stunning.  Apparently that’s what San Diego is known for, but it was my first trip there so I had no idea.  I left Denver this past Thursday morning when the temperature was hovering somewhere just above zero (Fahrenheit!!!) and arrived to a balmy 70-something that continued throughout my four days in San Diego.  I stayed downtown by the harbor and the bay and had the view above from my hotel room.  I also ran along that promenade down below.  Needless to say — and with a sunset like the one below — leaving was a little painful.

Sunset across San Diego Bay

That said, I’m not sure I would actually want to live in San Diego, maybe just visit regularly during the winter?  It reminded me a little of LA in its shininess and the freshness and plasticity of some of its people.  It also seems to be a driving city, not that we had cars. I am a walker whenever possible.  I went out only one night to gay bars — with friends of a friend who actually live in San Diego and so we got something of a tour — and one of these friends told me that gay life there is a wee bit mindless.  His example: he’d gone to San Francisco for New Year’s Eve and met himself an eligible gay doctor, whereupon he realized anew that gay people actually could be doctors.  His point was that gay life in San Diego was more than a little vapid and shallow.  Reminds me of somewhere else I know…

That said, it sure is pretty and while the weather in D-Town is pretty nice today (and promises more of the same tomorrow) I can’t say I’m not missing an outdoor lunch with 75 degree temperatures and not a cloud in the sky.

New Year’s Eve in Tahoe!

Posted in bars, food, gays, parties, travel, wine by Blake on January 4, 2010

Greetings, readers.  First of all, as one half of Down and Out in Denver, I must acknowledge that the other half, a mere two days ago, celebrated a very-close-to-momentous birthday.  Happy Birthday Alastair!!!

I will allow Alastair to recount his birthday escapades as I was not present.  The DOD boys escaped Denver for the New Years festivities, both of us to San Francisco and environs but with slightly different agendas for the weekend.  I went to see the Gentleman Friend (as well as others) and Alastair hung out with his own pals and celebrated both NYE and the B’day.  But we met up on the eve of the eve for a cocktail celebration (like a little warm-up!) with all of our Bay Area peeps: drinks at the Blackbird on Market by Church.  I like this bar.  It’s gay, but not overly so.  Women welcome, even of the heterosexualist variety.  And while I’ve been there on crowded nights in the past, this time there was plenty of room to move and indeed to sit.  They also have a good and changing selection of wines by the glass, unusual not just for a gay bar, but for any bar.   Following cocktail hour(s) a few of us headed out to dinner at Starbelly (16th and Market, where Asqew used to be), the new sister restaurant of Beretta (23rd and Valencia).  Lots of good appetizers: the chicken liver pâté was excellent; tasty salty fries with three homemade dipping sauces.  The salads were also great, especially the apple and celery root.  Finally, pizzas: our table had a margherita, a mushroom, and the GF and I split a mixed salumi, cherry tomato, and fresh mozzarella.  Very good: a little crispy and, though fancy and thin-crusted, there was definitely enough cheese.  Following dinner we met back up with the crew at what we heard was to be the last night at the smoke-filled Amber (14th just above Market) before it was revamped into something swankier.  All flavored vodkas were on sale as they tried to rid themselves of extra alcohol.   The GF and I headed out around 11 because we had to get up the next day for a trip to Lake Tahoe with his friends.

Lovely Lake Tahoe

Tahoe.  That’s right.  This non-outdoorsy, non-skiing, non-snowboarding urban homo flew from Denver to California in order to go to a ski resort town.  Go figure.  Apparently that’s what a very fine Gentleman Friend can do to you.  I will not go into all the detail about the lovely meals that our group of nine had, or the very pretty views (see above), or the drunken card games (apparently I am very bad at Taboo after too much wine, and I’m not half bad without, though the GF is far better), all because I have a much better story to tell instead.  Here goes: The GF and I lost a coin toss and were allotted the futon in the second-floor loft.  All of this would have been inconsequential except that the loft was open to the staircase and the living room below, meaning that in the wee hours of the first day of the New Year, I heard increasing groans coming from below where one of our fellow Tahoers was sleeping on the couch.  At first I thought it was someone having sex, and when I realized it was someone alone downstairs I thought he was having a bad dream, or one in which he wrestled.  Then I heard him being very ill in the bathroom and assumed he’d had too much to drink.  As he moved about downstairs bumping into things and falling over, still groaning aloud, I thought he must be sleepwalking.  Finally the GF woke up and we consulted: he went downstairs and the friend (whom I’ll call Randy) indicated that he needed to go the hospital.  And pronto.

Dear reader, never again will I disparage the iPhone.  Without the GF’s iPhone we would have been in serious trouble.  That trusty little GPS app guided us from our condo to the Barton Memorial Hospital in South Lake Tahoe, all as Randy suffered the most excruciating pain to which I have ever personally borne witness.  Agony, I tell you.  Upon arrival we rushed in and, because his pain was pretty obvious to the receptionist, Randy was ushered into the inner sanctum with very little delay.  Thus began our odyssey at the Barton ER.  Picture it: New Year’s Eve at a resort town famous for its gambling and partying.  Who do you think might have been there?  My estimate, based on our three hours between 4:00 and 7:00, is that the clientele was pretty equally divided between the unbelievably intoxicated and those who had been injured in alcohol-fueled altercations (sometimes overlapping categories, to be sure).  Those were the ones being treated, of course, but the demographics of the patients and those waiting were actually pretty similar.  I could tell many, many stories but I think I’ll have to limit it to just 2 or 3 of my very favorites.

It was quickly apparent that our BFFs in the waiting room were going to be the three hipsters from San Jose who were waiting for their super-drunk friend, Angela.  They explained to us that she was small and had been drinking far too much – beer and shots – which resulted, not surprisingly, in a trip to the ER as they feared she might have alcohol poisoning.  The hipsters were themselves slightly drunk and very chatty.  At one point they were called to the desk to consult about Angela’s imminent release and when they asked, were told that her blood alcohol level was a point 2 (.2).  The boys’ knowledge of the law or medicine was not what it could have been and so they concluded that this meant, as they exclaimed, “She isn’t even drunk! Why are we even here?”  Of course the legal limit for driving is actually a .08, so Angela’s levels were more than twice that, but this was lost on the hipsters (and indeed on the GF and myself until we used that handy iPhone again to look up blood alcohol levels).  A “sober” Angela was released to the arms of her loving friends.

Some visitors to the ER that night, however, were not so lucky.  Consider the case of two young women whom I’ll call Courtney and Ashley (we never learned their actual names and indeed it’s unclear whether they would have remembered them at the time).   Ashley emerged from the inner sanctum after we’d been there for about an hour.  She looked dazed but had a slight grin on her face.  She walked outside into the snow and promptly turned around and came back in.  The cab that the ER staff had called for her had not yet arrived.  Somehow, across the waiting room, she started to talk to Courtney, whom she did not previously know but with whom, it turned out, she had much in common.  They had both awoken in the ER wearing hospital gowns and little else, their clothes having been removed by the ER personnel, presumably.  They had no idea how they’d gotten there, where their friends or phones were, or, in fact, where they were at all.  After treatment they were both released to wait for cabs.  Of course they also couldn’t remember where they were staying but this did not stop Courtney and Ashley, by this point fast friends, from linking arms and heading out to a cab destined for “the strip”; they’d find their way together!  A drunken New Year’s Eve friendship was born right there in the ER.  It was all rather heartwarming.

Finally, there was perhaps the most dramatic of waiting room pals: a group of three waiting for a man who had been injured in a bar fight.  One of them was his girlfriend and the other man might have been her brother.  Their friend had been knocked upside the head with a bottle of “Dom P,” as the man told us.  (One of our friends later noted that at least it was a decent brand and not something cheaper like Korbel.)  He was having stitches on his left ear, but not quickly enough for his girlfriend, whom I’ll call Mary.  Mary was, in a word, impatient.  She explained to us and all others present that the only way to get in to see a doctor was to fake unconsciousness – that’s what she’d had her man do, and it had worked! She encouraged others still waiting to adopt this tactic. (The GF and I were something of an anomaly in the waiting room in that Randy had not actually spent any time in it and his ailment seemed entirely unrelated to alcohol; we thus did not need her advice.)  In the meantime she tried to persuade the receptionist to let her into the back to see her boyfriend, whom she claimed she could see lying on a stretcher not being helped by anyone.  The receptionist was having none of it, even when Mary increased herself to the status of wife (“I need to get in there and see my husband!”).  The receptionist’s intransigence prompted Mary to go off on a tirade, and provided the two best lines of the night: “That bitch is out of control!  This is like being in a Mexico hospital!”  We had difficulty stifling our laughter because “that bitch” (the receptionist), far from being “out of control,” was actually preoccupied with a Janet Evanovich novel and should have ignored Mary far more than she actually did.

Oh, but I could go on.  The entire experience was actually so amusing that – combined with how much pain Randy had clearly been in – it was impossible to be resentful of the three hours we spent there when we should have been nestled snug in our bed.  There definitely could have been better reading material – Forbes and the ESPN magazine are not going to cut it for two liberal homos – but so long as someone else was actually present in the waiting room, it hardly mattered.  Finally, dear reader, you will be glad to know that Randy was released after he passed his kidney stone – not appendicitis, as I’d thought – and we headed back to the condo, and back to bed.   Certainly the most unforgettable New Years Eve I’ve had in the past 20 years.

Greetings…

Posted in travel by Blake on December 21, 2009

…from the other side of the Blizzard of 2009, which stopped me in my tracks as I made my way to the East coast yesterday.  Stranded in Boston overnight, I camped out en famille before making my way further up the coast early this morning in this:

Kim and Katie with the aircraft

That’s right, dear readers, I flew in that.  While the plane seats nine if someone sits in the co-pilot’s seat (and I have!), there were only three of us this fine morning.  Plus Katie, the pilot.  The flight was a little choppy, thanks to all the leftover wind, but we made it to our destination (below) in just under an hour.  There was snow everywhere but Katie brought it in for a smooth landing and Kim had everything unpacked and at the “terminal” in about five minutes.  Together Katie and Kim must comprise about half of the airport staff.

The Airport

The terminal itself is the one building pictured above with a trailer tacked on the back; that’s where we wait after going through screening.  And I should say that the screening here is the most thorough and persnickety I’ve ever experienced.  They are not messing around.  They also ask for your weight (flying here or back) and often informally assign people to seats based on that weight.  Once you’ve given up your carry-on luggage (it goes in the wings) you’re free to board.

Arriving in this manner is all worth it, however, when this view awaits, a far cry from D-town even when gray:

Happy Holidays to all from the East coast!

xoxo

Blake

Bon Voyage!

Posted in denver, travel by Blake on November 25, 2009

Denver's Very Lovely Airport by Night

Les boys de DaOiD are heading out of town for the weekend to give thanks and eat lots of stuffing!   Well, one of us (not me) has already flown the coop and the other (moi) commences his journey this very morning. By 5:30 p.m. MST I shall have reached my destination.

Along the way these are some of the things we will be very thankful not to see in our travels:

1. Couples in matching workout gear. Ground rules: in order to wear a “workout” outfit, one must have worked out in it at least the one time.

2. People who dress more casually for travel than they do to lounge around their homes watching TV. We get it, you want to be comfortable but come on, dress up a little for air travel!  Let’s bring some elegance back to the skies.  My own mother has never worn jeans on a plane and while that might be a little extreme, let’s at least banish all sweatpants, shorts, and workout clothing (see #1, above) for anyone over the age of 16. Southwest may have people lining up like cattle, but that doesn’t mean we have to dress poorly, too!

3. People eating pizza and other hot food in their seats on the plane.  Clearly this is a consequence of the lack of meals being included but there’s something disconcerting about someone tucking into a big melty meal when that someone is located mere inches away from oneself.

4. And speaking of: people (read: straight men) who insist on taking up more than their allotted seat space by using both armrests; attempting to raise the armrests altogether; or moving their legs and knees into their neighbors’ space.

5. People who try to board the plane ahead of their seating area or seat number.

6. People who bring on too much carry-on luggage, thus monopolizing the overhead bins to the detriment of the rest of us who follow the rules.

7. Couples who insist that, simply because they are coupled, they are entitled to sit together, even when some of us will have to switch seats to accommodate their “needs.”  All of this, in their minds, is perfectly reasonable because some of us are traveling by ourselves and thus don’t have real rights to the seats that we preselected months ago when we booked our flights.

What will you be thankful not to see during your holiday travels?  Leave a comment if you are so inclined and I’ll approve them all as soon as I arrive at my destination.

And Happy Thanksgiving!